Blame the potholes

Before you read the following post, you should know that I drive this car daily.
It may seem that this blog recently is nothing more than a list of  problems, but when the car works (which it does 99.9% of the time) there is nothing of any interest to post - "disconnected charge cable, backed out of garage, drove to work, drive home from work, connect charger cable..."

Yesterday I had a little trouble getting to work. Along the way my controller appeared to shut down - the Charge light went out and the Check Engine light went on plus, I had no power. I coasted to a stop and restarted the car. Everything worked fine. I took the streets to work in case it decided to fail on me again and once I parked at work, I hooked up my laptop to my Zilla to read the error codes. There were 3 of them - the 12v supply was too low, the contactor opened unexpectedly, the motor RPM was too high. Sounded pretty serious, but I remembered a similar set of errors when my 12v SLI battery failed and I had left the door ajar one night, leaving the interior lights lit for 14 hours... I decided the SLI battery was to blame and after work, took the streets home without incident. Once back home, I hooked up my 12v charger to my SLI battery. It showed it was at 100% - but I ran it through a charging cycle anyway.

Next day, I drive to work without incident. Ont the way home, however, it stalled, First on the freeway (i was able to coast down the next exit where I was able to restart it), then at a left turn (sorry to the people behind me) then at a traffic light (more sorries to those behind me).

I figured it must be a loose 12v wire. Saturday I popped the hood and poked around for a loose wire. Everything looked fine...until I noticed the ground connection under the relay box was loose. I tightened it up and took her for a test drive - all good. A simple fix to what sounded like a serious problem.

The potholes must have rattled it loose.

Running out of things to do...

That sounds good doesn't it?
Today I went through my "Todo" list I made over the break...

#1 - Bleed clutch. I bled the clutch once before, but it still wasn't working. This isn't that bad in an EV, since there isn't much shifting involved, but I will definitely need a clutch to get my 0-60 time. I have a self bleeder kit (a plastic bag and a hose) so, once I took battery #6 out and cold see the clutch cylinder, it took maybe 10 minutes.

#2 - fix leaky (heater) hose. I'm using the heater core as a radiator/reservoir for the Zilla. Only problem is, I didn't plan for this and bent up the metal end when I pulled the engine. I spent 15 minutes making the leaky one rounder so that the hose clamp would seal.

#3 - Pull 12v lead to temp gauge. Before the break I troubleshooted the temperature gauge and found out my 12v supply wasn't working. I pulled a new wire from the fuse box to the instrument panel and wired it up.

#4 - Fix Tach. The tach hasn't worked and I've been suspicious of the sending unit. It is a magnet thing that looks like a plastic cup that is supposed to fit on the nose of the motor. Mine didn't exactly fit, so i added some washers to the mount so that it would. It's buried under Zivan, so fixing it is going to be tough... First thing they teach you in mechanic school (I'm told) is to start with the easy stuff, and work up to the hard. The easy thing is to see if some knucklehead mis-wired it at the hairball. Yup. White and Red were reversed. To test it out, I'll need to put the batteries back in and cable them up. Easier said then done, but they're in and I left the handle on #5 so I can easily pull her out later. I turned the key on, step on the throttle and the tach needle starts to wobble up the gauge - nice!

#5 Fix ammeter. Like the Tach, the ammeter has never worked, but I was on a roll. I started by setting my meter to millivolts and connecting it to the shunt (this is hidden in the high voltage box). I'm not sure what it's supposed to read, but the shunt is rated at 50 mv, so I'm guessing it should show 0-50 mv on the meter. I put the meter where I could see it from the driver seat and gave her some juice. The meter showed 7, 11, then 17 mv, which was enough for me. I then did the same test on the wires at the instrument panel with the same result. Hmmmm. Maybe the ammeter is bad? I decided there were 3 possibilities

1. Wrong shunt. But they only come in 24, 50 and 100 mv, so I would think the gauge would still read something, even if the shunt was the wrong value...
2. One or both Leads fell off the ammeter, I pulled out the panel and removed the ammeter - all were connected and even did a continuity test on the leads to double check my crimping was good.
   
3. Defective gauge. I read the instructions from Westach, but there were no trouble shooting tips other than reversing the polarity if the needle goes the wrong way, but my needle never moves. I'll email them to see if there is another test...

The Zilla has a setting to display amps on the Tach. Later, when I had the gauges back in I tried it out. Works pretty good. The Zilla manual says tach shows the amps x 10.

#6 Fix light in temperature gauge. The light stopped working in the temp gauge, and since I has the panel out I removed it and found the light had slipped half way out of the gauge. That was easy. While I was at it, this gauge never fit in right, so I spent some time adjusting the mounting clamp so that it didn't hit anything in the panel. Fits nice now - no squeezing and cussing needed...

Now I was seriously running out of things to do while the batteries charge...
I decided to fix the driver side courtesy light. Some adjustments and contact cleaner and she works!
This is getting bad...

#7 Fix remote charge indicator. As you might remember, I put a charge indicator in the charge port (where the gas used to go) so you could easily monitor your charge without popping the hood. I had to extend the cable to get it to reach and it does light, but I noticed the LED blinked red when it should be blinking yellow... maybe a short? I'm hoping it's not the splice I did, if it is, then I got to pull the wiring out of the conduit under the car to fix it.
Starting with the easy stuff, I pull out the LED from the housing to check my soldering job. Well, the wires got all twisted up in the housing and shorted out. A little electrical tape should do the trick... I'm still charging the batteries individually, so I can't test it out yet, but I'm going to call it fixed just the same.

Back to the batteries...
I had charged up all the batteries up front before using the motor to test the ammeter and the tach. When I checked them with the meter, they were down around 12.6 where they had been above 12.8. One, #2, was at 12.45! That's a pretty substantial drop for not even driving the car.
I check the trunk rack and they were all around 12.8. Is it my bad #5 battery dragging down the batteries in the front racks? Or do I have more bad batteries? I have been suspicious of #2, maybe she's gone bad too? If I had the money, I would replace the whole lot of 'em.
We'll see what happens after #5 is replaced.

Happy New Year!

I'm back.
and am anxious to finish this project. There isn't a lot left to do, just a few little things that need to be done...

First, the batteries. For the most part, they held their charge pretty well over the last 2 weeks. I still have the one bad battery, number 5, that needs to be replaced, but while I'm waiting, I'll charge up her sisters...

The only really new thing I have on my list is the fuse box. I originally had the Zilla and the vacuum pump wired to the same circuit. Later I added the Iota relay (so that it was only active when the key was on) to the same circuit and realized this was getting to be a bad thing. If the pump or relay blew, or shorted out for whatever reason, the Zilla would too. I bought a cheap fuse box on eBay before the break and today, mounted it on the firewall and wired it up.

While I was messing with the wiring I decided to tackle my wiring harness that snakes around the nose rack. It had gotten pretty messy from adding and moving wires after I had tie wrapped it all down and it's been bothering me. In case it's not clear enough from that comment, I have a *thing* about wires - OCD. It started when I worked at the phone company. Anyway, I had to disconnect a lot of the wiring and one cable, but after an hour and a half, it was nice and clean - no wires wrapped around each other and all covered in the wiring loom.

Out of balance

I'm having trouble getting the batteries in balance so that they can be charged.
When I fire up the charger, I get some BEQ1s lighting up yellow and in 90 seconds one goes red indicating overheating.
Some batteries are around 13 volts and some are just under 12. They should be 13.2 volts when fully charged, and they are shipped charged. I blame this on my shorting out of the nose rack that melted one of the batteries. I think that drained the other 3 in the pack and the replacement battery has a higher charge.
My plan is to charge the low ones one at a time with a 12 volt charger and drain the high one a bit by connecting it to the SLI battery and turn on the headlights.
My cheap meter isn't exact enough for me to tell what's really going on, so I ordered a Fluke on eBay.
More on this later...

While I was charging and draining the batteries I did some more wiring.
I traced out the wire to the Tach and hooked it up to the Zilla's Hairball and ran a new wire from the dash down to the hairball for the Check Engine light. The stock wiring for Check Engine goes to the ECU, which was located under the front floor board on the passenger side. Doesn't do me any good there, so a new wire was in order.

I did a little more dressing of the wires after that.

With these last two wires hooked up I could finally chop out the rest of the wiring harness. This actually was kinda fun. After chopping, I wrapped up the ends with tape so that they won't short anything out. It looks a lot cleaner and there won't be anything to rattle around when I hit a bump.

Wiring, wiring and some charging questions...

I started out today by returning the crimper and vacuum tester, then a quick trip to Lowes for some electrical parts for adding a 220 outlet. I was originally thinking of going with a 30 amp 110 outlet for the Zivan, but the distributor recommended 220vac for the input saying it would make the Optimas last longer.
When you can choose both the outlet and the inlet (the part on the car) you have a ton of options. I decided to go with the L6-20 because it's locking (no cables falling out by mistake) it's reasonably priced and I could get a pre-made 15' cord for $25. BTW, there is a proposed standard inlet/cable combo that I did consider - but it's way expensive. I figure if it does become a standard, I'll make a cable up.
Putting it all together was straight forward. Plugged the car in, and the Zivan beeped a couple times, it's fans spun up and charging commenced. A few of the BEQ1s had their yellow LEDs lit, which made sense because the pack shouldn't need much of a charge. Then after a bit one lit it's red over temp LED. This BEQ was hot and the manual says to shut the charger down when this happens. I did a little trouble shooting and determined that this battery was the replacement for the one I toasted. It shows 13.3 volts where the rest of the pack is showing 11.9 to 12.4 volts.
So, until I figure out a remedy, there will be no charging.

Next I cleaned up the under hood wiring. I put in a split loom over the wiring to make my wiring look more stock. A word of advice - put the loom in first, then run the wires. Do not put the wires in then try to squeeze the loom over them - like I did. It was a long frustrating experience, but I finally got it in place and it looks good.

I had a little more time, so I relocated the horn. The old location would hit the nose rack, so I drilled a hole inside of the bumper in the gap between the sides of the nose rack. Fits real nice and the stock wiring even reaches.

Order wiring diagrams

No wiring diagrams in the manual! What were they thinking? Luckily, you can find most anything on the web. Got a set of diagrams by a company calling themselves Automotive Hobbyists. http://www.ahdol.com