Cool electric car decals

Been looking for some good EV stickers for my electric Miata, but all the stickers I found were from the 90's and quite dull.

One winter I came across some cool lightning bolt graphics at a ski shop. Comes out they were from Electric Sunglasses. A little research and I found some stickers that clearly said "electric", were cool and didn't break the bank.

  

If you want to get some for yourself, just send me a comment and I'll pass along the URL.

Miata "hood" alignment

I see a lot of Miata's with hood problems - or at least that's how they look. You know the ones, where the hood sticks up higher than the pop up headlights. I always wondered how the hood got that far out of alignment, but that's not what's rong at all.
After doing a lot of under hood work I found my car exhibited the same hood issue. But I wuickly found out that it wasn't the hood at all, just the headlight covers...

 There isn't any bracing in the back of the Miata headlight covers. Any pressure will cause them to bend down creating what looks like a hood alignment problem. Luckily, the fix is really simple...

Prop open the hood, grab a rag and "love up" the underside of the headlight covers. Apply a little upward pressure as you rub across the width of the cover. Don't pull hard, just  gently pressure is all it needs.

 In no time your headlight covers will be back where they belong and your hood will fit like new.

$8 Fix for a faded Miata bumper

If you have an early Miata with original paint, chances are the front bumper has faded. You have probably read about different polishes or treatments that should work, but none worked on my car. Here's how the nose used to look - tired and faded...

Then I got the idea that what was really wrong was that the clear coat was gone. I tried a little cear touch up paint to test the ides, and it worked! I went to the local auto parts store and bought a can of Duplicolor clear for $8. I masked off the metal work, so that only the rubber bumper was exposed and laid down 3 coats of clear before the can gave out.
Here is the result:

 

After a couple of days, I rubbed it in with some polishing compound to bring out the shine and there you have it. No need for an expensive paint job and no more embarrassing faded nose - and for only $8!

Miata can't shift into reverse?

About a year ago, I was driving my '92 Miata and I couldn't find reverse gear. I made a couple of simple fixes and, so far, I haven't had any trouble with reverse since.

Here's a tip or two if you find you can't get your Miata into reverse:

If you have trouble shifting into reverse with the clutch fully engaged, try giving the car a little throttle while you release the clutch AND pull the shifter into reverse.  You may feel the gears start to grind a bit, but it will often slip into gear.

If that doesn't work, you can replace the reverse light switch and replace your transmission fluid with synthetic. I'm not sure which of these made the biggest impact since I did them the same day, but neither of them are expensive or hard to do.

• Replace the reverse light switch  Reverse lights are often a trouble spot for NA Miata's. Either the switch fails or the connectors  to the switch work their way loose. The reverse switch can also become stuck which may prevent you from shifting into reverse. This may have been the problem with my car, since the shaft was hard to depress and felt like it was worn into place. It's really not too difficult to replace the switch itself, though make sure you reinstall your old washer. Without it the switch will protrude into the transmission a little too far making matters worse!. Replacing the switch isn't hard, but connecting the switch it IS. The wiring is on top of the transmission (!) making it quite a chore to connect. Luckily, they aren't polarized, so either wire on the harness can go to either wire on the switch - but that's small consolation.
  Check out the red wires on the left side of the transmission in this picture from Hakuna Miata. They head up and over the transmission to the right side where they are connected to the harness. Fun eh? As an added safety measure, I would recommend taping these connectors with some duct tape after they're connected. You don't want to do this again...
  
  
• Replace your transmission fluid with synthetic. Synthetic oil is much slipperier then the run of the mill stuff, which makes the transmission easier to shift and could improve your mileage as well. You'll want to refill the transmission with the car level so that you can get an accurate read on how much synthetic is in the gear box. Jack up both ends of your car and make sure you have enough room to work. You can get synthetic at most car parts stores for under $10, and while you are there you may need to pick up a couple of other things
  - My filter plug used a square drive - which was not in my toolbox - so add that to your shopping list if you don't have one.
  - Spray solvent.  My filler plug would not come out for anything and the usual WD-40 did nothing. Comes out the last person to open it (or maybe it was the factory?) gooped it up with a lot of thread lock. A little spray solvent did the trick.
  - A fluid pump.  You'll need a pump to get the fluid in the transmission, since the filler is too close to the tunnel for the bottle to fit.
  - The Synthetic transmission oil. The manual says 2.1 quarts are needed, but I used a little less than 2 and spilled a bit as well. 

After I made these simple changes, shifting was noticeably improved.  And in the past year, I never had a problem shifting into reverse again. Hope it works for you.

Blame the potholes

Before you read the following post, you should know that I drive this car daily.
It may seem that this blog recently is nothing more than a list of  problems, but when the car works (which it does 99.9% of the time) there is nothing of any interest to post - "disconnected charge cable, backed out of garage, drove to work, drive home from work, connect charger cable..."

Yesterday I had a little trouble getting to work. Along the way my controller appeared to shut down - the Charge light went out and the Check Engine light went on plus, I had no power. I coasted to a stop and restarted the car. Everything worked fine. I took the streets to work in case it decided to fail on me again and once I parked at work, I hooked up my laptop to my Zilla to read the error codes. There were 3 of them - the 12v supply was too low, the contactor opened unexpectedly, the motor RPM was too high. Sounded pretty serious, but I remembered a similar set of errors when my 12v SLI battery failed and I had left the door ajar one night, leaving the interior lights lit for 14 hours... I decided the SLI battery was to blame and after work, took the streets home without incident. Once back home, I hooked up my 12v charger to my SLI battery. It showed it was at 100% - but I ran it through a charging cycle anyway.

Next day, I drive to work without incident. Ont the way home, however, it stalled, First on the freeway (i was able to coast down the next exit where I was able to restart it), then at a left turn (sorry to the people behind me) then at a traffic light (more sorries to those behind me).

I figured it must be a loose 12v wire. Saturday I popped the hood and poked around for a loose wire. Everything looked fine...until I noticed the ground connection under the relay box was loose. I tightened it up and took her for a test drive - all good. A simple fix to what sounded like a serious problem.

The potholes must have rattled it loose.

Electric Toyota Miata?

Over the weekend I was checking the throttle and noticed that it didn't go "full on" when the accelerator was fully depressed - it only made it 90% of the way. This meant I wasn't getting 100% of the power even with the pedal to the metal...

I reworked the cable connection to the throttle using a cable stop from Kragen and moved it to a lower hole on the actuator arm. This made the car much more responsive - less cable travel to get the same amount (or more!) speed.

Monday's commute was a little more fun than normal. First it was more responsive, so I was passing cars, making abrupt lane changes and generally enjoying the ride.

On the way home I floored it and felt the cable jerk - I released the pedal, but the car decided she was a Toyota and was at full speed  - the throttle was stuck. I pulled up on the accelerator with my toe, but that did nothing, so I switched off the ignition, then put the key back to the first position (accessory) so that the wheel wouldn't lock up on me, and coasted to a stop on the shoulder.

Under the hood I quickly saw that the cable stop was stuck against one of the housing screws on the potbox. I bent the arm a little toward the front of the car so that there was clearance again.  Checked it once or twice, then hopped back in and waited for a break in traffic. I accelerated a little slower so as not to tempt fate, and drove home. After a couple more tests in the garage I was convinced that all was okay.

So, I think this illustrates one of the advantages of building your own car - or at least working on it - you know what all the parts do and can quickly remedy a situation that would have stranded an average motorist.

I guess that's one way to look at it...

Bad SLI battery

Well, on my way to work Wednesday morning the check engine light came on solid. This is the Zilla’s way of telling me that something is amiss. The can continued to drive with full power and the Zilla wasn’t overheating (according to the gauge) so I continued my drive. Once in the parking garage I plugged in my laptop and looked at the error codes. I was surprised to see a whole bunch of 'em:

1224 - SLI battery too low and caused shutdown of controller
1221 - Major Overspeed Either Motor Beyond redline by X
1223 - SLI battery below warning threshold
1124 - Main Contactor Stuck On

2 of these, the overspeed and contactor stuck on are pretty serious, but the motor wasn’t over-reved, and the contactor was not stuck on…

By the way, SLI stands for Starter, Lights, Ignition since that's the role the battery plays in a gas car. In an EV, it's more of a buffer to keep the 12v system running during heavy loads.

I cleared the errors and thought I’d take a look at it again on the way home.

After work I drive the car out of the garage without the check engine light lit. On my way home the light came on steady again. It was raining so I was using my wipers and headlights, so then I started to think the real error was low SLI battery voltage and this low voltage was causing the Zilla problems in its logic which made it think the motor was over revving or the contactor was stuck.

A few blocks from my house it did stall, but I was able to get it running again and brought her home.

I tested the voltage on the SLI battery – 12.4v, not too good. I got out my 12v charger and charged it up.

The next day I drove it to work when the check engine light came on again. Once in the garage I checked the error codes and this time it was just 1223 - SLI battery below warning threshold. I left work a little earlier to avoid using the headlights, and it wasn’t raining, so the trip home was, other than the check engine light staying lit, uneventful.

Back at the house the SLI battery again showed 12.4v. I put it on the charger for a couple of hours, but when I removed the charger the voltage started to drop. In an hour it was back at 12.4v - must be a bad battery.

I checked on line and the nearest auto parts store, Kragen, doesn’t carry them. I tried Sears, and they don’t carry them either. I was thinking I was going to have to order one on line and pay a hefty shipping fee, when I found that Auto Zone did carry them and the one 20 minutes away had one in stock!

Saturday I pulled the old battery, picked up the new one and gave them the old one in return. Connected it up and thought I was all set…

Monday on the way home the light comes on again! Same error, 1223. I put the new battery on the charger and checked under the hood to see if my Iota was disconnected. It was wired fine, but I did find one of its fuses blown. Not sure when this would have happened (maybe when installing the new battery?), but this must be why the new battery died on me. Just the same, the old battery was bad because it wouldn't hold a charge.

So, moral of the story?
- Low SLI battery will make your Zilla think strange thoughts
- Check your fuses!